Yesterday we went to Valparaiso, which is home to the planet's strategic reserve of Napoleonic tat. Its a lovely port on the coast near Santiago. It was a happening place until an earthquake and the opening of the Panama Canal pretty much wiped it out. Sir Francis Drake torched the place, so they are always happy when more brits show up. (just kidding).

In the good old days, ships bound for California had to sail around Cape Horn in the very south of Chile, then past tons of Patagonian fjords (Slartibartfast would be proud), until getting to Valparaiso, the first real port. The opening off the canal cut off the need to go around Cape Horn. It also cut off Valparaiso's source of income. The main things of note in the town now are the Naval College and port. We wandered around Naval Muesum, which hangs off the College.

More history: The Royal Navy began a massive demobilisation as Napoleon was shipped off to Elba. At the same time, the South American republics were fighting for independence from Spain. The Chilean founding fathers (one of whom has a massively confused ancestry and the surname O'Higgins, making many street names sound familar) suggested to out-of-work Royal Navy officers that they might like a job. The prize catch of this was Thomas Cochrane, who is a big deal in the history of the Chilean Navy. Approx one and a half Nelson's worth of a deal. The museum goes into this in some detail.

The main problem the museum has is that Chile hasn't actually been at war with anyone for over 100 years. The Coup is politely brushed over, though there is a room about a admiral who ended up in charge, with no discussion of how he became president.

The rest of the town is lovely - full of narrow winding streets, street murals, funicular railways, and a wonderful view. Go for a wander if you're ever there.

This afternoon we wandered up San Cristobal Hill. The view from the top over Santiago is immense. The city sprawls for miles.

We have actually managed to put up photos from Valparaiso.

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